Even when Frederic Tudor, the "Ice King", shipped frozen gold from the far north to Cuba at the beginning of the 19th century so that the wealthy could enjoy their daiquiri or mojito cold, the big business was sensed. Soon the ice was being transported around the globe, involving complex logistical challenges. The value of ice lost interest in the 1980s, but is now back stronger than ever.
Ice has been given a new status in bar culture, and in the new concepts, ice production is seen as a priority. So it will be interesting to see where this topic leads, but one thing is clear - no bar can survive these days without ice. Who has ever ordered a cocktail in a renowned high-end bar and found the infamous, fast-melting hollow ice in the glass? An absolute no-go in today's bar world in which we are trying to establish ourselves. But change is imminent. More and more bars are recognizing the importance of ice. They are investing in ice machines that produce closed, airless cubes.
The "directional freezing "* process is used to freeze blocks of ice in order to cut or carve them into large ice cubes. There are even companies that specialize in different sizes and shapes of ice cubes and already deliver thousands to the venues of the Swiss night bar circuit. In the past, bartenders even had large blocks of ice on the bar counter where they could carve customized cubes or spheres. The effort involved and, above all, the hygiene are questionable, which means that this is hardly used any more. But what makes frozen water so special, and why is ice often described as the most expensive ingredient in a cocktail? Depending on the cocktail, a specific type of ice is recommended.
* Directional freezing is the process used to produce crystal-clear ice. It is important that the water is only frozen from one side in order to push the air particles that form the turbidity in the ice downwards as the water freezes. The ice should be released from its mold before it is completely frozen through.
Old fashioned cocktails, for example, are enjoyed over a large block of ice to slow down the dilution caused by melted ice. Clear milk punches in a long drink glass are often served with ice sticks so that the eye does not immediately recognize that there is ice in the glass. Crushed ice is used to mix classics such as mojitos or caipirinhas or, almost more importantly, to pre-chill the glass. An unusual ice shape always creates a surprise effect that often leaves a lasting impression, especially if it is tailor-made or cut to size. On closer inspection, good ice machines cost a lot of money.
In addition, up to 300 grams of ice is required per cocktail - for pre-chilling the glass, for cold stirring or shaking the drink and for straining over fresh ice. If you add up the costs for electricity and water as well as the maintenance of the machine, this adds up to a considerable annual sum. If you also decide to buy ready-cut blocks of ice with a logo, you have to add at least two francs per cocktail to achieve a halfway decent margin. At the moment, I have the feeling that ice cream vendors are springing up like mushrooms.
This article appeared in
issue 3-2024
BAR NEWS magazine as single issue
More and more companies are offering customized ice cream options, resulting in a major price war. The cube, measuring five by five centimetres, is priced between 80 centimes and 2.30 francs. The fact is that customers are following the trend and are increasingly on the lookout for high-quality ice cream. I have heard that bad ice cream was a reason for staying away from a bar. This is understandable when you consider that you pay around 20 francs for a cocktail in some establishments.
