The entrance to a bygone era is located in an inconspicuous corridor in Bahnhofstrasse Zug. The melodic sounds of a once forbidden music guide the brave down into a subterranean parallel world, far removed from all that is known. Another reality in which time stands still, thoughts come to rest and even the most sober learn to dream anew. Since the beginning of last year, the Hidén Harlequin has been waiting at the bottom of this magical staircase.
A Japanese teahouse where guests can retreat into another world. The Jazz Kissa has its origins in the Second World War. When the American soldiers came to Japan, they also brought jazz with them. However, the Japanese government soon banned this type of music - the musik of the enemy - and so jazz disappeared into the underground world. It was played secretly in underground kissas, where personalities of different nationalities from various professions soon met underground, and they all carried creativity in their hearts.
They came together in these secret places, which could only be entered by recommendation, and let the music take them to a distant world. Far away from the cruel reality of war. These kissas still exist in Japan today, where people meet and escape from everyday life. "It's not so much a form of escapism, but rather an escape to recharge your batteries," explains Kevin Taró Bicker. His relatives took him to the Kissa when he was a little boy. "I thought it was great. It was a bit like Disneyland for me," says Bicker, who spent the first few years of his childhood growing up in Kyoto, his mother's hometown.
Since his school days, the family has lived between Japan and Switzerland. "My father is from Zug, hence the location here," says the owner of Hidén Harlekin. It has always been his dream to open his own kissa. His father is also enthusiastic and supports his son wherever he can. "He takes care of all the finances, but also helps wherever he can," says Kevin Taró appreciatively.
Everyone works together
Bicker is actually a full-time artist, a third-generation calligrapher. His uncle, grandfather and great-grandfather were important calligraphers in Kyoto. Today he works as a calligrapher, artist and interior designer under the name Taró Nordberg. He has also integrated his artistic skills into his Kissa.
As the restaurant, formerly known as the Topas Club, had to be completely renovated, Bicker took the design and the sledgehammer into his own hands. And it wasn't just him, his family and friends also lent a hand. Of course, they also had two excellent site managers and some construction workers during the renovation, but it was important for the 32-year-old to be involved himself.
He hired a specialist for the leather upholstered corners, a second-generation upholsterer, as they say: "His father did an apprenticeship as an upholsterer in Paris back then," says Kevin Taró. "The wallpaper is also hand-printed," he explains, pointing to the elegant wall decoration. "The best moment was when the wallpaper was pasted and the seating areas were finished. When we sat in the upholstered suite, it was the first time that it looked more like a Kissa than a building site," he laughs.
The open space now offers many different seating options for every taste. Cozy couch corners that invite you to linger together. Small tables in the middle of the large room with an optimal view of the stage and its musical performers. Hidden corners for an intimate tête-à-tête. Or the spacious bar for sociable loners. The bar was of course also tailor-made for the Kissa. In a generous U-shape, it adorns the upper end of the room, directly opposite the lively stage in the evening.
Japanese ingredients must be used
However, Bicker leaves the artistic design of the bar menu to others. Under the direction of Pascal Schönenberger, guests are treated to new and classic cocktail creations with a Japanese touch. The only requirement: Japanese ingredients must be used. "Pascal, Brian and Madhu do a great job. They have become very good friends of mine," says Bicker, praising his bar team.
Small appetites are also catered for. The Japanese sushi master Toshiro, formerly Head Sushi Master at the Mandarin Oriental in Lucerne, is on site from Thursday to Saturday with donburi specialties and treats the guests of the Hidén Harlekin to his Japanese delicacies. Musical entertainment is on the daily program. The coordination and scheduling of the concerts and musicians in particular caused the owner a lot of headaches at the beginning.
The costly financing of the musicians is covered by guests who pay admission as well as the city of Zug: "We are very happy that we have a cool partner in the city of Zug, who supports us with funding. For the music, for the culture," explains Bicker with relief. Jazz Kissa offers live piano music every Wednesday. On Thursdays there is a jam session where anyone with musical experience can take to the stage. Both jazz and blues are welcome on this day.
A quartet plays every Friday and once or twice a month there is a special band on Saturday evening. "Then we also have other events such as burlesque shows," says the Kissa owner. His artistic signature can be seen in many small details. There are handwritten flyers on the bar counter with the weekly cocktail.
In the most elegant calligraphy. And Japanese culture runs like a fine red thread through all the elements and reflects the philosophy of Japanese culture and the Kissa - from the name to the logo to the bar menu. Hidén means the gateway to another world in Japanese. Harlequin is a trickster character. It's a theatrical character from Italian that tricks you. But not in a negative sense, as Bicker assures us, it reveals a different reality.
The marriage of the foxes
The fox found on the logo is the symbol for the harlequin and the saying "Kitsume no Yomeri", which appears in the card, means the marriage of foxes. It is an allusion to a Japanese legend from the 15th century. "People wondered where the rainbow came from after the rain had disappeared and the sun was shining. They then said that two foxes had married and were now playing a prank. That's why there's an umbrella in the logo, the sun in the middle and the fox at the bottom," says the artist, giving an insight into his culture.
He carved the Hidén Harlequin logo into wood by hand and had it stamped. This decorates the large, crystal-clear blocks of ice for the drinks. The clientele of this extraordinary place ranges from young to old. "There's everyone from 25 to 80," says the Zug native. And that's exactly how it should be. He wants to attract locals and expats, who can be found here in large numbers, with his offer. It should be like a second home, a second living room, asserts Kevin Taró.
A lot has happened since the opening. Many familiar faces, who repeatedly answer the jazz call and immerse themselves in the magical world of Kissa. But this was not the case from the very beginning. As there was no advertising for the venue, Bicker and his team often found themselves alone at first. It's not a place you walk into by chance. The entrance is too inconspicuous and the location too hidden for that. "We then did a bit of social media," says Kevin Taró Bicker, but he didn't really want to advertise. He relies most on word-of-mouth advertising, which has also always proved successful in Japan. In the meantime, Kissa has established itself and has already gained many regulars.
Another Jazz Kissa in Kyoto
Next, the music lover would like to introduce so-called "listening sessions". These are events, typically held in Kyoto, Kobe, Osaka and Tokyo, where the focus is on listening to vinyl records. A music selector carefully chooses records and presents them, usually asking the audience to listen quietly and concentrate fully on the music. Talking is prohibited at listening sessions in Japan.
But things won't be quite so strict at Hidén Harlekin after all: "At least the guests are allowed to talk when ordering," laughs Bicker. Another wish for the Kissa owner would be to open another jazz teahouse in Kyoto, his second home. Kevin Taró is visibly grateful for the Best Newcomer Bar award and is encouraged in his plans. The trophy is already clearly visible in the middle of the bar shelf and crowns the illuminated range.
Hidén Harlequin
Jazz Kissa Club
Bahnhofstrasse 30, Zug
hidenharklekin.com
Opening hours
MI: 19.00 - 00.00
DO: 19.00 - 01.00
FR - SA: 19.00 - 02.00
This article appeared in
issue 5-2024
BAR NEWS magazine as single issue
