Wormwood, a mugwort plant (Artemisia absinthium), is a strong-smelling and bitter-tasting plant that has played an important role in medicine and magic since ancient times. Like gall, wormwood is a symbol of bitterness, a single drop of which is enough to turn a drink (such as wine) into a bitter potion. Because of its low price, wormwood wine was the preferred drink of poor homeless people (the so-called wormwood brothers). The saying refers to the bitter taste of wormwood, which, when added to the drink, gives it an unpleasant flavor.
Vermouth or vermouth
The Spirits Ordinance stipulates that vermouth must consist of at least 75 percent wine as a product. The addition of sugar and sugar couleur is permitted. This results in the following distinctions:
- Extra dry: less than 30 grams of sugar per liter and a minimum alcohol content of 15 percent by volume
- Dry: less than 50 grams of sugar and a minimum of 16 percent by volume
- Semi-dry: between 50 and 90 grams of sugar per liter
- Semi-sweet: between 90 and 130 grams of sugar
- Sweet: from 130 grams per liter, 150 grams are more common
Production of Vermouth
The production of vermouth begins with a base wine, which is flavored with a mixture of herbs and spices. Typical ingredients include wormwood, mugwort, bitter orange, cinchona bark, gentian, vanilla and cinnamon. The mixture is then strengthened (fortified) by adding alcohol to achieve a higher alcohol content. Vermouth is now produced in many countries, but there are even two protected designations of origin: Vermouth di Torino and Vermouth de Chambery.
Vermouth di Torino
This Italian DOC has existed since the end of 2016 for vermouth from Piedmont (from the area around Italy's former capital). Vermouth di Torino must contain between 16 and 22% by volume and must contain at least one wine from Piedmont. If this is to be indicated on the bottle, the proportion of this wine must be at least 20 percent. The use of real wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) is mandatory and this must also be clearly noticeable. Sugar may be added in the form of caramel, honey, must or normal sugar:
- Extra Secco: < 30 Gramm je Liter
- Secco: < 50 Gramm je Liter
- Dolce: > 130 grams per liter
Examples of brands include the well-known Cinzano, the Martini & Rossi brand (with the Ambrato version), Vermouth del Professore and Carpano.
Vermouth Superiore
This is a sub-category of Vermouth di Torino, which must contain at least 17% by volume and at least 50% of the base wines must come from Piedmont. In addition, 50 percent of the herbs used must also come from Piedmont.
Vermouth de Chambery
This is the only French AOC for vermouth and there is currently only one producer left who produces according to this AOC: Dolin. Dolin Vermouth Dry is a high-quality white vermouth from Chambéry in France. Produced on the basis of high-quality wines, Dolin Dry is refined with fine herbs from the French Alps, which grow wild there and are collected fresh. This vermouth is characterized by its fresh and balanced taste. Vermouth de Chambéry has been produced according to the same recipe since 1821.
Vermouth is not only available in these two countries, but also in Spain. Spain has a long tradition of Vermouth production, especially in regions such as Catalonia. Here, vermouth is often enjoyed as an aperitif before lunch or dinner. Bars often offer a selection of vermouths accompanied by olives, almonds or other traditional tapas. Spanish vermouth is often characterized by strong herbal aromas and a balanced sweetness. Well-known brands such as Martini, Yzaguirre, Casa Mariol and Miró are highly regarded in Spain.
Different spellings
In German-speaking countries such as Germany, Switzerland and Austria, the spelling "Wermut" is often used. This spelling is etymologically closer to the origin of the word, which comes from the Latin term "vermutum". In other countries, however, particularly in English-speaking regions and in the regions of origin of the drink, such as Italy and France, the spelling "vermouth" is often preferred. In terms of content, both terms refer to a wine flavored and fortified with spices and herbs, which must have a prescribed alcohol content of between 14.5 and 21.9 percent by volume and, depending on the declaration, must have different levels of sugar. One or more varieties of wormwood must be added as one of the herbs. This flavoring gives the drink its characteristic taste and makes it a popular ingredient in cocktails or as an aperitif in its own right.
Vermouth, non-alcoholic
With the growing interest in non-alcoholic drinks, non-alcoholic vermouth variants have also gained in popularity. These alternatives offer the same aromatic enjoyment as traditional vermouth, without the alcohol content. Manufacturers often use extracts of herbs and spices to preserve the authentic flavor profile.
These non-alcoholic Vermouths are an excellent choice for people who want to enjoy the taste of Vermouth without the effects of alcohol. Some examples of this category are Jsotta senza, Rebels, SI off, all from Switzerland or the international brands such as Lyre's, Martini etc.
Popular uses of Vermouth
Vermouth is not only a popular, light and aromatic drink on its own, but also a key ingredient in many classic cocktails. The Martini, the Manhattan and the Negroni are just a few examples. In addition to the selection of other ingredients, it is important to choose the right vermouth to reinterpret variations of the classics. In Spain, the "Vermut con soda" is a popular aperitif in which Vermouth is served with sparkling water and a slice of orange.
Vermouth offers a wide range of flavors from sweet to tart, depending on the producer and composition, and has become firmly established in various cultures. The increasing availability of non-alcoholic vermouths is also expanding the variety and accessibility of this classic drink. Whether you opt for the traditional or non-alcoholic versions, vermouth remains a fascinating and versatile part of the world of aperitifs.
This article appeared in
issue 3-2024
BAR NEWS magazine as single issue
