Rhum Agricole is similar to its parent category, rum. But there are some notable differences, and it's not just the spelling of the word. Rhum Agricole must be made from sugar cane juice, unlike rum (or ron) which, with some exceptions, is made from molasses.
The name Rhum Agricole gives further clues. Rhum is the French spelling of rum, accordingly genuine Rhum Agricole can only be produced almost exclusively in French territories: French Guiana, Guadeloupe, Martinique, La Réunion and - idiosyncratically - on the Portuguese Atlantic island of Madeira.
Agricole stands for agricultural; a quite appropriate description, as it also stands for a flavour expression characterised by grassy, sometimes earthy and often unripe fruits, which can reflect the terroir of the region where it is produced. Depending on the region, there are very different regulations for Rhum Agricole. Martinique, for example, has had its own Appellation d'Origine Controlée (AOC) since 1996.
In recent years, other countries have introduced equivalent geographical indicators (G.I.) to protect their origin and production, such as the specified harvest time, sugar cane juice yield and minimum times for fermentation, distillation and maturation (ageing), alcohol content and the like.
The AOC of Martinique
Since its approval in 1996, the AOC Martinique has undergone two revisions in 2005 and most recently in 2014. The current version of the AOC specifies when the sugar cane may be harvested (January to August) and the maximum yields allowed per hectare (120 tonnes of sugar cane/ha). In addition, the permissible production zones were expanded from 23 in 1996 to a total of 34.
Furthermore, the authorised sugar cane varieties were limited to the species Saccharum officinarum and Saccharum spontaneum. These two species have always accounted for the majority of sugar cane grown, so this change is only a consolidation of the status quo.
There were also new regulations for the production of Rhum Agricole AOC Martinique (and thus also for the other French overseas territories that apply this regulation for themselves). The maximum fermentation time was increased to 120 hours, compared to 72 hours previously.
In the long run, this should produce an additional type of aroma that will resemble the long-fermented rums from Jamaica and British Guiana. Quasi a "High Ester Rhum Agricole". It will be exciting when we can (consciously) taste the first of these bottlings in Europe as well.
Variety and storage
The use of different types of sugar cane and the reduction of the nine regulations to only two (previously 12) will, hopefully, have another effect: different terroirs should then have a much more perceptible influence on the quality of the Rhum Agricole.
In Guadeloupe, this can already be observed very well with the Longuetau brand. Their bottlings of different terroirs are a wonderful example of making differences clear and showing them in taste.
The upper alcohol limit of the final fermented mash is now set at 7.5% by volume. This, too, is likely to change the variety of aromas. Together with acidity (terroir), new aromas (e.g. esters) will emerge. In the field of distillation, distillation may now only take place from 2 January to 5 September.
The descriptions of the permitted distillation apparatus were largely retained. In the area of storage, the minimum resting period for blanc Rhum Agricole was reduced to six weeks, compared to three months previously.
Vieux Rhums with a certain vintage must be at least 6 years old. The permissible age-inducing descriptors (e.g. XO, Cuvée Spéciale, etc.) have also been greatly expanded, so that we will soon find descriptions that go beyond the current VS, VSOP or XO descriptions. The minimum alcohol content of a Rhum Agricole AOC Martinique must be at least 40% by volume.
A drastic innovation has occurred in the area of finishing processes. The use of caramel and oak chips is now expressly permitted, provided that it leads to a maximum "darkening" when applied to not less than 2% by volume of the total quantity. This provision is significant insofar as such refinements were previously not used.
Until 2014, Rhum Agricole AOC Martinique could confidently be described as uncoloured, this is no longer the case. Ideally, "only" an additive is added for colouring, but there is nothing recognisable that prevents a sweet caramel from being used as well - with all the consequences this implies for the taste. So it will depend on the increasingly demanded transparency of the production of distillates what we will learn. We will taste it...
The purpose of protection measures such as AOC or GI is to ensure that agricultural products remain true to their geographical, atmospheric and methodological practices. This basic idea is also behind other rhum-producing countries in the world, e.g. Mexico, Thailand, La Réunion or Mauritius.
The latter region in particular is currently in the process of doing a lot to define the peculiarities of its r(h)um production in a regulation. For example, rhum from Mauritius is to be produced only from sugar cane that is native to the island. This is a first approach, which will certainly have to be followed by others and which should be enforced in order to protect the producers native to the island.
Rhum Agricole and its possibilities
The number of Rhum Agricole lovers is (rightly) growing from year to year. It remains exciting to see how the new AOC rules will affect Martinique and what steps other rhum-producing countries will take to protect their independent spirits. Those who follow the current debate realise that there are various countries today that clearly emphasise the independence of their distillates.
Cachaça is a good example of this. There are over 600 different types of sugar cane in Brazil, but people are only slowly using this diversity as an expression of pride. In addition, there are the influences of the terroir of the individual regions as well as the production, e.g. with short-fermenting yeast varieties or low-alcohol-grain distillations in continuous plants.
Not to mention barrel ageing in different sizes and types of wood (including tropical wood!). The variety is increasing and with it the need for international regulation to more clearly distinguish other sugar cane juice-based distillates.
Although the Agricole category was sidelined by the larger Rum category decades ago, it is now a booming category.
In the USA, one of the most important rum markets in the world, developments are also discernible that call for an improvement in national and international regulations. For example, some brands already use the term Agricole on their bottles, partly just to emphasise an artisanal production, partly to imply the use of sugar cane juice.
But the word Agricole stands for a certain style of production regulated in French overseas territories. And it is important to protect it! Some of these American producers are closer to Clairin from Haïti or Cachaça with their Agricole.
It is high time that TTB and BATF introduce clear rules and naming regulations to preserve the Rhum Agricole category in its traditional form. Although the Agricole category was pushed aside by the larger rum category decades ago, it is still a booming category today and the name can carry a wonderful, clearly recognisable appeal; partly thanks to its niche status.
It is time to take a closer look at this category and its variations.
This article appeared in
Issue 4-2020
BAR NEWS magazine as single issue
