Spirits, Craft, Terroir

Fascination Japan

The rich and fascinating culture of Japan leaves no one untouched, especially those who stand behind the bar counter full-time. On the other side of the globe, a bar style has emerged that is based on a different philosophy.

Kneeling on the cushion, the guests wait their turn. The woman who leads through the Japanese tea ceremony has invited us into the room and then carried in utensil after utensil, kneeling on the floor and carefully placing cups, matcha powder, a bamboo spoon and a platter of sweets in their designated place. Every action - the folding of the tea towel, the foaming of the tea, the careful placing of the bamboo spoon on the kettle - everything has its meaning, its purpose. If you want to drink a quick cup of tea and then get back to your daily routine, this is not the place for you.

Japanese Tea Ceremony

Japanese culture is fascinating because it is so clearly different from the so-called Western way of thinking in many respects. Much of art and cuisine - and especially the intersection of these areas - has already made the leap into the Western world. And in the local bar scene, too, one encounters Japanese influences more and more often. Ingredients, technology, ice - the term "Japan" leaves no one cold.

The alcoholic beverages produced in the Land of the Rising Sun are also fundamentally different from the western products of fermentation and distillation. And yet. Nothing changes in the underlying production process - from the conversion of sugar-containing raw materials with the help of yeasts into an alcoholic liquid to the subsequent distillation.

Here, as there, people learned how to preserve the surpluses from agriculture thanks to alcoholic fermentation. Which raw material is used depends primarily on the soil and the microclimate, i.e. the terroir.

But anyone familiar with Japan's geography knows that the climate on the northernmost island of Hokkaidō (same latitude as Milan) is completely different from that on the subtropical islands of Okinawa Prefecture (Japan's southernmost point is at about the same latitude as Havana). It is therefore hardly surprising that not only cereals such as rice and barley, but also sugar cane thrive in Japan's fields.

In the wine world, the term terroir refers not only to soil, (grape) varieties and microclimate, but also to the traditions and craftsmanship that are passed down from generation to generation. It is this aspect in particular that makes these Far Eastern spirits so fundamentally different from those of the Western hemisphere.

The malting? The multiple distilling? Barrel ageing? Diluting spirits to drinking strength, i.e. 37.5 to 42% by volume? Bottling in glass bottles of 7 dl? What seems to be set in stone in Europe (the exception proves the rule) is by no means the law around the globe.

Like "schnapps" in Switzerland, Shōchū in Japan is made from a wide variety of raw materials.

And yet the western art of distillation has also spread to Japan. This is evident not least to the bar guest who looks for distillates from Japan in European bars. Whisky here, gin there - maybe vodka, liqueur or rum. But before we go into the Japanese interpretation of Western spirits, let's try to get closer to the original Japanese spirit: Shōchū!

What is Shōchū?

The Japanese term Shōchū originated - like distillation itself in this region of the world - in mainland China. Literally translated as brandy or distilled liquid, the term could probably also be translated as "schnapps" (although there is often something negative about this term).

An uncomplicated, understandable umbrella term that describes both high-quality distillates made from first-class raw materials and the uncomplicated source of alcohol. But while schnapps in this country usually refers to fruit spirits, Japanese Shōchū has in common that it cannot do without starchy raw materials.

Like "schnapps" in Switzerland, Shōchū in Japan is made from a wide variety of raw materials. In Japan, sweet potato (Imo-Shōchū) is the most common, while rice (Kome-Shōchū) is considered the oldest ingredient. Barley is also used for Shōchū production. Barley Shōchū (Mugi-Shōchū) is particularly suitable for the Western palate as an entry-level Shōchū.

But before you start looking at the basic ingredients, it is worth checking whether the bottle you are holding is a so-called Honkaku Shōchū. Honkaku Shōchū translates as "Authentic Shōchū" and is considered to be of higher quality than the more neutral Ko-Class Shōchū (or Shōchū Korui). The latter is not subject to the same strict guidelines as Honkaku Shōchū.

"But it is not what is drunk in Japan that is fascinating, but also how it is drunk."

Sake can be found in every Japanese restaurant. Shōchū, on the other hand, whose consumption in Japan exceeds that of sake, is still a niche product in Europe. Those who do find it, however, come almost exclusively across Honkaku Shōchū. That is why we will focus primarily on this category.

Shōchū is also not to be confused with the South Korean spirit soju. The historical production areas of Shōchū are Kyūshū and Okinawa or the southern, warmer regions of Japan, which were less suitable for sake production.

Koji and vacuum distillation

The biggest difference to western distillates made from starchy raw materials is the use of koji. This is a mould that is cultivated on rice or barley in the first production step. On the one hand, it ensures that starch is converted into fermentable sugar. On the other hand, the characteristic flavours (e.g. umami) develop.

In the second production step, rice, barley, sweet potatoes or another of about 50 approved ingredients are added, depending on the Shōchū variety. The more common ones also include buckwheat, sesame seeds, brown sugar or sake lees (press residue from sake production). The more surprising ones include green peppers, shiitake, carrots, tea or pumpkin. Raw materials can (and are) of course also combined - the variety of Shōchū is correspondingly high...

As if the subject of Shōchū were not complex enough, there are also three different varieties of koji, each producing different flavours. The most common variety for Shōchū is white koji (Aspergillus kawachii), but yellow koji (Aspergillus oryzae), which is mainly used for sake, is also used for some Shōchū.

The third koji in the bunch is the black koji (Aspergillus awamori) and is used for awamori, among other things. Awamori is made from Thai rice and originates from Okinawa. The roots of this speciality, described as an older relative of Shōchū, go back to the 15th century.

A ferry connects the tropical Zamami Island with the main Okinawa Island, the origin of traditional Awamori.

Shōchū producers also take different approaches to distillation. Whereas in Europe the question is usually pot still or column still, Shōchū is basically divided into atmospheric distillation vs. vacuum distillation (the question of multiple distillation does not even arise with Honkaku Shōchū). In vacuum distillation, air is removed from the pot still. The result is that distillation can take place at a lower temperature.

After distillation, Shōchū usually rests in neutral containers for several months before being bottled. Sometimes Shōchū is also stored in wooden barrels for several years. When you hold a bottle of Shōchū in your hand, the first thing you notice is often the fill quantity (72 cl) and alcohol content (usually between 25 and 30% by volume, possibly up to 45% by volume). In the glass, each Shōchū - depending on the craft and raw material - shows itself in its own way. Härdöpfeler and Kirsch are, after all, two pairs of shoes ...

Better known in this country than Shōchū is Umeshu, the famous Japanese plum wine - although this term is doubly misleading. The ume fruit is more closely related to an apricot than to a plum. And this liqueur has certainly nothing to do with wine. Shōchū, sugar and green (unripe) ume fruit - and a lot of time - are the main ingredients of Umeshu.

"The ume fruit is more closely related to an apricot than to a plum."

In Japan, you can find a huge variety of umeshu, which is not least due to the fact that many Japanese make their own umeshu according to a home recipe. Besides the choice of Shōchū - often a cheap Ko-Class Shōchū - the ume variety also influences the flavour of this liqueur.

Several hundred varieties of Prunus mume, the botanical name of this rosaceae, are said to exist in Japan alone. However, some of these varieties have been bred mainly with the aim of the tree bearing the most beautiful flower possible rather than the most aromatic fruit. Furthermore, many producers vary with the sugar variety, other botanicals or even with barrel ageing.

Price and prestige: Japanese whisky

While Japan's traditional distillates still (!) tend to have a shadowy existence in Europe, Japanese whiskies have been confidently defending their conquered place in the spotlight for years. But in view of a history that goes back to the 19th century, shouldn't Japanese whisky be concidered to be a traditional Japanese distillate?

The first casks of whisk(e)y reached Japan during the 1850s, a time when the country was abandoning its isolationist policy as a result of international pressure. Whisky seemed to fascinate, which is why some distilleries specialised in the production of so-called yoshu (foreign liquor) in the following decades.

What these products might have tasted like is difficult to reconstruct today. However, these distillates probably did not have too much to do with what we understand as (Japanese) whisky today.

The first Japanese to come very close to the whole story was a man named Takamine Jōkichi. His love for an American woman led the biologist to the USA, where he received a patent for the Takamine process named after him in 1894.

For this process, instead of malted grain, he used an enzyme that he had previously isolated from koji. However, an unfortunate sequence of events (fire and change of ownership distillery, legal dispute, health problems) meant that his method could not become established.

How would Japanese whisky taste today if Takamine had brought its know-how from the USA back to Japan? In any case, as we know, things turned out differently.

Interestingly, Suntory and Nikka share a common history and can both be described as the founders of Japanese whisky culture.

Japanese whisky, as you can see from the spelling, is historically not based on bourbon and rye whisky, but on Scotch. Suntory and Nikka are representative of the origins of Japanese whisky culture. Even today, both brands are often mentioned first when talking about Japanese whisky.

Since the purchase of of Beam Inc. (Jim Beam), Suntory is truly a global player. This also applies to Nikka's brand owner Asahi Group Holdings, Ltd., whereby this group is particularly strong in the beer market in addition to whisky.

Interestingly, Suntory and Nikka share a common history and can both be called the founders of Japanese whisky culture. Shinjiro Torii was the visionary man who laid the foundation for the current success of Japanese whiskies in 1923 with the Yamazaki Distillery. Before that, he was not only a trader of European alcoholic beverages, but also a producer of imitations of these.

However, Shinjiro Torii owed the know-how of whisky production to another man: Masataka Taketsuru. The fifteen years younger offspring of a sake dynasty travelled to Scotland and not only learned the craft in various whisky distilleries between 1918 and 1920, but also met his future wife Rita Cowan.

Back in Japan, he was hired by Shinjiro Torii at the Yamazaki Distillery. Due to differences, he parted company with Torii in 1934 and founded the Yoichi Distillery on the northern island of Hokkaido, launching the first Nikka whisky in 1940.

Today, you have to dig deep into your pocket for Japanese whiskies. Growing global demand prompted many Japanese producers to increase their production. But as is well known, you have to wait several years before what is distilled today can be sold as whisky.

But what is it that makes Japanese whiskies so exclusive and unique and how do they differ from other whisky styles? This is not an easy question to answer, as Japan's numerous distilleries produce a variety of different whisky styles.

Today, you have to dig deep into your pocket for Japanese whiskies.

And yet the Japanese focus on details in various production steps (especially in the choice of casks and blending) is impressively evident in the glass. Already in terms of colour, many Japanese whiskies are off the beaten track, often in the lighter spectrum.

Barrel-ageing in Japanese wood is also particularly interesting, with barrels made of Japanese water oak (Mizunara) being very popular. Finishes in sakura (Japanese cherry blossom trees) have also been the talk of the town in recent years.

Blending is also of particular importance. Unlike Scotland, however, it is hardly common in Japan for new makes or whiskies to be swapped between the different distilleries. For this reason, it is not uncommon for a producer to distil with both pot stills and continuous stills to produce the different styles of whisky for his blends.

However, the use of Scotch whiskies for Japanese blends was also widespread for a long time. In future, however, these whiskies may no longer be sold as "Japanese Whisky". In spring 2021, the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association (JSLMA) decided on long overdue rules for the designation "Japanese Whisky".

From April 2024 at the latest (when the transitional period of the new guidelines ends), the origin Japan may only be indicated on the labels (this also includes Japanese cities, names, flags, etc.) if the whisky was actually fermented, distilled, aged and bottled in Japan.

More specialities from Japan

Whisky is by no means the only Western-influenced spirit that has been reinterpreted and perfected in Japan. At the same time, the term "Japan" on a spirit label seems to increase its perceived value immensely.

As a result, gin with traditional Japanese ingredients such as green tea, cherry blossom, algae or yuzu, for example, is now no longer even produced exclusively in Japan. But watch out! Decorations such as cherry blossoms or a sun emblem flag on the label say nothing about the place of production of a spirit - it is quite possible that the recipe is merely "inspired by Japan" ...

Japanese spirits obviously like to inspire. Also with fancy liqueurs, vodka and not least rum. But it is not only what is drunk in Japan that fascinates, but also how. Diluting (-wari) spirits with water (mizuwari), hot water (oyuwari), soda (sodawari) in various ratios (e.g. 1:1, 1:2 etc.) are widespread. The ratio depends not only on personal preferences but also on the alcohol content of the spirit - traditional Shōchū and Awamori already have a relatively low alcohol content.

The use of ice also has a special significance in Japan. Crystal-clear and sometimes hand-carved ice has long been a standard in many top cocktail bars around the world. In addition to unique distillates, Japan seems to be an almost inexhaustible source of aromas and flavours still unknown in this country. But in Switzerland, only a fraction may have reached the mainstream.

Trendy flavours and aromas like matcha or yuzu can already be found in products ranging from yoghurt to deodorant to lemonade. But who knows which flavour will find its way from the land of the rising sun to us next.

The preparation may have taken its time, but not the drinking of the matcha tea. Before you take your first sip, you take a small sweet from the plate. The sweetness takes the edge off the first sip, and by the last, you have become accustomed to the intensity of the powdered tea. After about five sips, you put the cup back. While the other guests sip their tea, you watch every gesture of the tea master. The folding of the tea towel. The turning of the tea bowl before she puts the cup ready for the guest. The cleaning and carrying out of the utensils. "Sado" (way of tea), as the tea ceremony is called in Japan, is much more than the physical act of taking in liquid. Every movement, every interaction between tea master and guest and every detail, no matter how small, tell their part of a tradition that is more than 500 years old...

This article appeared in
Issue 5-2021

BAR NEWS magazine as single issue

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